Autumn-Winter Haute Couture 2015 will be marked as the year where everything was about going back to the essence of the brand and to the essence of couture itself. It all boiled down to construction and in certain cases the deconstruction of garments as each design house created beautiful collections that strongly echoed the aesthetic sensibilities of the respective brands.
From design houses like Atelier Versace, Elie Saab, Valentino and Zuhair Murad who created luxurious floor sweeping gowns with intricate details to others like Dior and Chanel who primarily focused on cuts and fit of each garment. John Galliano for Maison Margiela, Viktor and Rolf and Schiaparelli created fantastical surrealistically inclined presentations that made everyone sit up in awe, this couture season had a lot to offer. We at Exclusively list our favorite Haute Couture designers and explore their collections.
Re-invention is the word that echoes through Karl Lagerfeld’s new collection for Chanel. The most iconic jacket of the 20th century was re-innovated to suit the 21st in the collection that used varying techniques and inventions to re-create what Chanel has stood for- understated power dressing for the women who keep up with the times. Using a casino setting as a backdrop for his presentation was a metaphor for Karl’s gamble of using laser techniques to create the shapes and textures we have come to associate with Chanel. A gamble that certainly paid off as always, leaving us wanting more from the designer as we already look forward to the brand’s next couture show.
VIKTOR AND ROLF
A surrealist fantasy came to life, art meets fashion would the wrong way to describe Viktor and Rolf’s couture presentation.
While most shy away from the pesky grey area where ‘art’ and ‘fashion’ are uttered in the same breath, Viktor and Rolf dived right into the discussion and presented us with a completely different view point all together. By incorporating broken canvases with their designs in their couture show Viktor and Rolf, debatably explored and presented us with the notion of wearable art. A stunning collection that cannot be missed this show will undoubtedly be marked as the duo’s finest fashion moment.
Going back to the essence of Dior, Raf Simons presentation was a visual treat as he explored deconstructing the existing design patters of this heritage design house. Infusing his collections with his distinctive sensibilties, Simons experimented with construction and silhouettes, re-envisioning the Dior glamour.
Bertrand Guyon’s first presentation for the House of Schiaperalli saw the Parisian designer strike a balance between his couture background with the founder’s surrealist inclinations. Going back to the essence of couture, Guyon’s designs focussed on the art of tailoring with sharp cuts and precise silhouettes. He perfectly balanced this with fantastical embroideries and prints that added to the luxury of this collection.
The extravagance and magnitude of Rome was seamlessly translated into equally luxurious designs in Valentino’s couture show. Head designers, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli designed an almost poetic ode to the city of Rome in their couture show with eleborate and intricate details featuring symbols that represent a Roman way of life. Black, gold and red being the colors of the evening, the show was everything that you would expect from a Valentino show.
Stay tuned for more on our blog!