Design Focus: The Experimentalist​s​

7 Design Labels Redefining Indian Fashion 

A new wave is taking over Indian fashion, a wave of experimentation and dynamic design brought forth by the young generation of designers fresh out of fashion schools or new entrants without formal training but with a passion for fashion and design that is all consuming. Breaking the monopolistic setup of the past, Indian design sector today seems to be a playground of the new and the old with a niche for everyone. So while the veterans still command the forefront and justly so given their innate sartorial stronghold, it is the younger designers and labels that are injecting a much needed freshness to Indian fashion, taking it a step further in tandem with the style evolution of the Indian consumer.

From non conformist androgyny and out and out normcore to extreme minimalism, we take a look at the design ethos of 7 labels that have captured our imagination of late along with our picks from their latest collections:

1. Ilk by Shikha Goel & Vinita Adhikari

Ilk’s aesthetic is clean, youthful and suave, with a touch here and there of distinctive signature hand-made textures. The garments suggest of a soft grunge feel. The label’s latest collection compels the viewer to look closer with the juxtaposition of the metaphysical with the Daedalus working of the craftsman. Tangled threads, never ending patterns and form repetition to procure your mind in an infinite loop of madness. Delude winter with their collection of opaque and transparent fabrics ornamented with illusionary motifs inspired from nature and geometry alike.

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Shop Ilk AW 15 Collection Here

2. HUEMN by Pranav Mishra & Shyma Shetty

HUEMN is a menswear and womenswear prêt label amalgamating international fashion with traditional tribal embroidery and contemporary aesthetics with intricate weaving techniques.A puritan design label that excels in minimalistic construction, the Huemn collections are a lesson in the uncluttered and the relevant.Marrying ‘boy meets girl’ androgyny of oversized silhouettes with delicate, earthy colour palettes and organic tribal motifs for subtly nuanced designs, their latest collection is an explosion of unique ideas that trickle down the thought factory, adjusted to wearable details and fit, fall and finish for exclusive, comfortable and individualistic looks.

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3. Runaway Bicycle By Preeti Verma
Named after the designer’s brother’s bike, Runaway Bicycle is an exploration of the simpler times of the childhood, representing the same free-wheeling spirit and devil may care attitude through its designs. Comfortable and practical, the cotton and khadi silk dresses and blouses in organic colours are mdesigned to match moods rather than styles with pockets to carry pebbles in. This simplistic aesthetic shines through their latest collection of dresses and free separates crafted with handmade fabrics from looms lost in time – keeping external forces minimal, the focus is on the organic beauty of the natural fabric clothing.

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Shop Runaway Bicycle Collection Here

4. Dvibhumi by Vyshnavi N Doss
Dvibhumi is an independent jewelry label with a simple quest: to transcend stereotype and contribute towards a contemporary identity for jewelry design rooted in Asian heritage. Dvibhumi is off-trend, intensely personal and hand crafted from local stories and local skills of India and south east Asia. The label’s new collection explores the malleability of silver against a canvas inspired by Indian classic music, Islamic architecture and Asian cultures.

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Shop Dvibhumi Collection Here

5. Dhruv Kapoor
Dhruv Kapoor’s eponymous label is tantalising with its promise of rebellion and a new fashion world order, as the designer puts it. A rebellion against the sequential societal norms and a new world order of ‘I’ over the ‘We’ – fashion that is extension of the self, underlined by individual moods, not pandering to the trends.  His latest collection is an oddly seductive, powerful and at the same time, fragile amalgamation of utilitarian military styled silhouettes, bold colour palettes and delicate bejewelled detailing, a collection hinting at the sartorial emancipation of the modern woman.

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Shop Dhruv Kapoor Pret Collection Here

6. Ikai by Ragini Ahuja
Ikai (meaning ‘One’ in Hindi) is a menswear inspired women’s wear collection – an eclectic juxtaposition of tough and edgy with femininity and Indian techniques with contemporary aesthetics. The label has developed a signature style of the
anti-fit silhouette combined with subtle nuances of the romantic with a take-charge attitude. The label’s latest collection is inspired by Japan, the local textures and motifs like the paper cranes, hand fans and the rising sun with subtle embroidery in the form of the country’s Sashiko stitching.

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7. Kanika Goyal
The designer’s eponymous label has become the next go to name for the red carpet regulars. What is different though is the understated refinement that makes her designs stand out from the regular evening wear designs. Quality craftsmanship meeting provocative minimalism for head turning designs. For her latest collection, the designer turns to Bauhaus architecture for inspiration for statement bodycon dresses and sharp separates with clever cuts and form-flattering silhouettes.

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Watch this space as we keep you updated with the latest in Indian fashion, the next in line being the Fall Winter collections you need in your closet. Till then, stay sartorial, stay stylish!
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