A Sartorial Masterclass

Definitive AW Collections From 5 Biggest Indian Designers

Last week we spoke of the hot new names to watch out for – young designers breaking the mold and forging a new sartorial path for themselves (read article here). And while this new wave of Indian fashion has us quite excited, it would be amiss of us to restrict our excitement to the new labels. After all one cannot deny the impact of the veteran designers without who Indian fashion wouldn’t have reached the pinnacle it is at right now – names that propelled the country’s design to global limelight while carving a niche for themselves that remains unbeaten by the international luxury brands and high street labels alike. From ethereal ethnic and eclectic Indo-western fusion to edgy evening wear, these were the designers who created a whole new fashion vocabulary for us Indians and went on to inspire international labels to create India inspired collections – picture the Hermes Sari line, the Chanel Paris-Bombay-Paris preview and the Canali Nawabi Jacket range.

And if you were to think that fame had made these designers complacent, you’d have to think again! Till date the strongest runway moments from Indian fashion weeks come mostly from their design repertoire. Take for example the recent couture previews and AW15 collections by them, where inspiration struck them from exotic places like Russia from the times of Tzars and Ottomans occupied Turkey to the Mughal architecture closer home. And how this inspiration got translated on the runway is a masterclass in innovative design – be it the mughal architecture inspired construction and detailing juxtaposed with minimalist western silhouettes or the fleeting nature of life depicted via amorphous shapes and transcendent designs.

Here we take a look at the latest collections – including AW15 and couture ranges, from 5 of India’s biggest designers, a curation ranging from traditional to fusion to western for complete fashion forward wardrobe options for the upcoming AW season and festive months. Keep on reading to find who are these 7 designers, about their collections and where you can shop these collections from:

1. Rohit Gandhi Rahul Khanna | A Frosted Minimalism

They are known for a sequinned dynamism when it comes to contemporary western wear – their signature being monochrome minimalism and a play of sequins, fringes and beads for the added glamour.

Titled ‘An Early Frost’The duo’s AW15 collection debuted at Amazon India Fashion Week earlier this year and impressed us with the strong construction and the powerful silhouettes with subliminal embellishments.

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Shop Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna AW’15 Collection Exclusively Here

2. AM:PM | Islamic Construction

While Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna specialize in edgy and glamorous minimalism, this designer duo has an entirely different yet equally powerful take on it – with a design story behind their every collection. Ankur and Priyanka Modi create garments that are exquisitely elegant and yet visually commanding with nuanced embroideries and thematic embellishments.

Their AW’15 collection ‘Siyaah’, which debuted at Lakme Fashion Week last month, is a study in this thematic minimalism taking inspiration from the culturally vibrant mughal era and the grand Islamic architecture for their Indo-western outfits.

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Shop am:pm AW15 Collection Exclusively Here

3. Rohit Bal | A Designer Folklore

He is a showman in every way, be it the grand inspirations for his designs, the drama he creates with these designs and the settings they are showcased in or even his own eccentric flair that shines through his impromptu runway antics. Rohit Bal creates Indian couture that is dramatic and elegant and same time, incorporating striking embroidery techniques of his native Kashmir with timeless mulmuls and velvets for luxurious looks that spell royalty.

His AW15 collection explores the fantasy and folklore of local Indian cultures with the marriage of traditional Indian crafts and contemporary silhouettes set against hand loom fabrics accentuated by Mughal inspired motifs, delicate thread embroideries and fine block prints.

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Shop Rohit Bal AW15 Collection Exclusively Here

4. JJ Valaya | A Tale Of Two Cultures 

He is the founding father of Indian couture and an affable genius who turns everything he touches into a sartorial masterpiece. And the elaborate canvases he paints with each of his collection reflect his passion for the artistic represented through outfits that are wearable works of art. JJ Valaya is eponymous with everything that is magnificent about Indian fashion with his larger than life approach to the design process.

Valaya’s recent couture collection, ‘The Bolshoi Bride’, brings the exotic Russian element to his signature Indian royal aesthetic. From the jewels of the czars to the Ikats of the nomadic Russia and the pre-rebellion architecture, this is couture with a beautiful clash of the two cultures.

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Shop JJ Valaya Couture’15 Collection Exclusively Here

5. Gaurav & Gupta | Philosophical Drama

He is the master of avant garde and the unconventional and a veritable design maverick. Gaurav Gupta brings a raw energy to everything his design and still manages to make the product innately sensuous. His designs are a study in the abstract and the structured and in unabashed femininity of the modern Indian woman with a clinetele outspoken, powerful women like Kareena Kapoor and Kalki Koechlin.

Silt & Cipher, his recent couture collection, is a revelation in the surreal workings of Gaurav Gupta’s psyche. Bringing together his natural and mystical inspirations, his couture collection was an enchanted forest of ethereal silhouettes, amorphous shapes and surreal 3D detailing.

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Shop Gaurav Gupta Couture’15 Collection Exclusively Here

Did we mention that these collections are available exclusively on Exclusively.com? And that you should check out our AW15 section for an extensively extensive range of womenswear, menswear and accessories options? If not, well we are doing so now, after all they say happiness increases by sharing – or in this case the style prowess maybe?! So yes, do go over to Exclusively.com and shop away for an enviable AW wardrobe.

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