Exclusively at AIFW SS’16: Day 5

A Harmonious Design Dichotomy On Closing Day of AIFW

It has been four days of sartorial revelry here at NSIC Exhibition Center in New Delhi (our unofficial workplace for the past few days!) and one wouldn’t expect less, what with India’s biggest designers and most promising new talents coming together for a Spring Summer 2016 Masterclass. From an exotic safari to a heritage time travel, from reminiscing the childhood days to a back to the future spectacle, we have witnessed some truly spectacular shows and outstanding designs on the runway and it wouldn’t be a stretch to say that we are loving this new age, dynamic face of Indian fashion.

Reporting from Day 5 here at AIFW, we were anticipating some standout moments both on and off the runway – they do say save the best for the last after all. And were we in for a sartorial gluttony, so to say! In an apt representation of the new fashion order sweeping over our fashion fraternity, the closing day was a celebration of both the traditional and the novel side of Indian fashion. Starting with an invite only exclusive preview of Rahul Mishra’s Paris Fashion Week SS16 Collection at the French Embassy (the perks of a fabulous job we say!), the day progressed with Indian inspired pret collections by Debarun & Kartikeya interspersed with contemporary power dressing by Dolly J, Prashant Verma and Tanieya Khanuja, playful westernwear lines by Saaj By Ankita & Kommal Sood and a surprisingly all Indian collection by Siddhartha Tytler. And then there was the Grand Finale! Man oh man, we are still reeling with the sartorial aftereffect of witnessing 16 design maestros sharing one stage for what was a design hall of fame runway. What a way to end the fashion week we say!

Here is a visual recap of day 5, the runway highlights, trends, off the runway deets and designer trivia from each show:

Rahul Mishra Paris Fashion Week Collection Installation

An Ode To The Artisan – Rahul Mishra’s SS16 collection that debuted at Paris Fashion Week last week was another notch in the designer’s sartorial belt with fashion critics including the likes of Suzy Menkes & Anna Dello Russo of Vogue (the veritable fashion authorities from Vogue UK & Vogue Japan) raving about him no end. We got get a glimpse into Rahul Mishra’s poetic haute couture world at the preview of his Paris Fashion Week collection at the Embassy of France today. Inspired by the “fourth dimension” – a  juxtaposition of different elements and shapes, the collection celebrates the art of handcrafting with intricate 3D work on light-weight wool dresses. Consider us obsessed!

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Debarun, Saaj by Ankita & Tanieya Khanuja

Debarun’s ‘One Fine Day’ was a glorious summer day represented through Indian heritage inspired luxury pret collection with signature silks in contemporary silhouettes offset by a riot of colour block prints and polka dots. Tanieya Khanuja’s Geometric Couture was a celebration of the powermaking woman with strong constructions, sharp geometric pleating details and prints in a no nonsense monochrome palette. Saaj By Ankita’s Minimalistic Summer was a fuss free and clean line of lightweight separates in fine textures, pristine whites and wispy cutwork details.

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Dolly J, Kartikeya & Kommal Sood

At Dolly J, Pastel Romanticism was the call of the hour with cutwork gowns, ruffled jumpsuits and trenches in mint green, fresh floral prints and ethereal neoprene accents offset by statement hand jewelry (we want!). Kartikeya’s Ruffled Baroque was a line of elaborately embroidered jackets, gowns and separates with intricate zardozi work, lace detailing and standout embossed florals. Fierce & Feathered seemed to be the theme at Kommal Sood’s with tailored separates, sweeping gowns and flowing skirts highlighted with an abundance of feather motifs conveying the summery spirit of lightness and freedom sprinkled with a shower of gold sequins.

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Shop Dolly J & Kommal Sood Collections Straight Off The Runway Here!

Prashant Verma

New York State Of Dressing – Prashant Verma packed quite a punch with power dressing in pantsuits and graphic maxis with a sense of overriding powerful ease as seen on the streets of New York – grafitti, garbage et al reimagined as gritty graphics set against the classic lines of the three piece suits, sleek evening gowns and the ever versatile work pantsuits.

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Siddartha Tytler

A Summer Wedding – In a decided shift from his usual Indian inspired statement western wear, Siddartha Tytler showed an out an out Indian collection, that too mostly ornate evening ensembles including layered Kurta and Lehengas, sheer saris with lace detailing and pretty as a picture lehengas with textured metallic blouses for that perfect summer bride look. There were some western influences by the way of satiny silver shirts paired with pastel green lehengas and shimmery gowns layered with blush pink overcoat (we want that overcoat pronto!).

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Planning Your Summer Wedding? Head Over Here To Shop These Lust-worthy Designs Straight Off The Runway!

The Grand Finale

Born In Benares – Following the Big Bang legacy of bringing the biggest Indian designers on one stage for an unparalleled fashion celebration (picture the AIFW FW15 runway). The grand finale this time was again a sparkling spectacle with 16 of India’s biggest and hottest designers coming together to celebrate the rich legacy of Benares handlooms following the heritage revival that seems to be sweeping the Indian fashion industry. Abhishek Gupta, Abraham & Thakore, Alpana Neeraj, Anupamaa by Anupamaa Dayal, Rishta by Arjun Saluja, Ashish N Soni, Gauri & Nainika, JJ Valaya, Malini Ramani, Indian by Manish Arora, Namrata Joshipura, Rajesh Pratap Singh, Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna, Sabyasachi, Tarun Tahiliani presented their take on the exquisite weaves of Benares reimagined in their signature styles – from understated old world Indian at Sabyasachi and organic minimalism at Abraham & Thakore to slinky metallic glamour at Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna and Japanese inspired modernism at Rishta By Arjun Saluja.

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So after the 5 days of a fashion overdose, we are off to nurse our sartorial hangover (preferably with a daiquiri on a beach side lounge chair – wishful thinking we know!). But stay tuned as we will be soon launching an InFashion Week series with decoded style edits, designer talk with your favorite Indian designers and exclusive behind the scene moments for all your sartorial cravings. Till then, stay stylish!


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